I love skiing, and taking my children to the mountains has been a dream of mine since long before they were born. So it was with much excitement (and slight apprehension) that we packed up the car and headed to Perisher in Australia’s Snowy Mountains for our very first family ski holiday. With a two-year-old and a four-year-old in tow, I knew this trip would look very different to the ski holidays I had enjoyed before kids. Gone were the days of skiing the first to last chair lift, long lunches and dancing on tables at après ski. Instead, I was preparing myself for early bedtimes, endless snack breaks, frequent toilet stops and a lot of carrying small people around in ski boots.
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Having travelled extensively with young children, I know that expectations are everything. I wasn’t imagining long days on the slopes or perfectly coordinated family ski runs. In fact, I went into the trip with just two modest goals:
- That the kids would enjoy the experience and fall in love with the snow.
- That I would somehow manage to sneak in an hour or two of skiing by myself.
I am happy to report that both goals were achieved. Not only did the kids absolutely adore the snow, building snowmen, throwing snowballs, riding the magic carpet and discovering the joys of a mountainside hot chocolate, but my husband and I also managed to ski in shifts, and each enjoyed some precious solo runs. In fact, by the second day, my son was so confident that I had a little companion heading up the chairlift. And most importantly, we all returned home already talking about the next ski trip.
Because that’s the thing about skiing with toddlers, it isn’t really about the skiing. Of course, skiing is the end goal, but a family snow holiday becomes something else entirely. It’s about watching your children experience snow for the very first time, it’s seeing the excitement on their faces, and introducing them to an activity you hope will become a family tradition for years to come.
Was it tiring? Absolutely. Did we spend more time putting gloves on and off than actually skiing? Probably. But despite the occasional meltdown, the trip was every bit as magical as I’d hoped.
If you’re considering a family ski holiday in Perisher, this guide covers everything we learned along the way, from where to stay and what to pack to how to survive the drive from Sydney and the challenges nobody tells you about when skiing with toddlers. Hopefully, it will help you set realistic expectations and, most importantly, enjoy one of the most memorable family holidays you can have in Australia.
Planning Your First Family Ski Holiday
What is the best age for a first family ski holiday?
My kids were two (almost three) and four during this trip. If I’m honest, two is a little too young, and in fact, ski school requires children to be at least three. My son, at four, had the best time and picked up skiing very quickly, so I would say four and above is the best age to start.
Choosing Which Resort to Visit
For a first ski trip, we wanted to stay in Australia and didn’t want to add the hassle of flying or travelling a long distance on top of a completely new experience for the kids. Perisher was the clear choice for us, as it is Australia’s largest ski resort with plenty of beginner terrain, an excellent ski school, dedicated learning areas and lots of accommodation options in Perisher and nearby Jindabyne. There are also snow play opportunities beyond skiing, and it is one of the most accessible resorts from Sydney (where we live).
How Many Days Do You Need?
For a first-time trip, three to five days is a good amount of time to introduce the kids to the slopes and allow for some progression on the mountain. Even a day to experience skiing is worthwhile, especially if you tie it in with a longer stay in the surrounding Snowy Mountains region. For our trip, we had three days in Perisher and two days in Crackenback, which felt like the perfect combination. Skiing (even without kids) is tiring, and wrangling toddlers requires an extra level of energy. So if you can factor in a bit of downtime during the trip, I recommend it!
When to Visit Perisher
Perisher’s ski season typically runs from the June long weekend to the October long weekend, but the timing of your trip can make a huge difference to both the experience and your budget.
Early and Late Season (June/September/October)
The first few weeks of the season can be a bit unpredictable. While snowmaking usually ensures some terrain is open, natural snowfall is less reliable, and conditions can vary from year to year. The upside is fewer crowds, cheaper accommodation and shorter queues for the lifts.
We visited Perisher for the opening weekend and found it was a great time to go with young kids. It wasn’t as busy as later in the season, and though not all of the lifts were open, it didn’t matter since we spent most of our time on the magic carpet and main chair lift.
Similarly, visiting in September and early October has fewer crowds, and is generally warmer, which can mean less snow but also means it’s less cold for little hands and feet.
Peak Season (July and August)
July and August are considered the best months for snow, with the largest amount of terrain open and the most reliable conditions. This means accommodation prices are at their highest, queues will be longer, and school holiday periods are especially busy. That said, if you’re investing in a family ski holiday and want the greatest chance of good snow, July and early August are hard to beat.
One of the benefits of travelling with toddlers is that you can avoid the school holiday period, making it cheaper and quieter to ski.
Driving from Sydney to Perisher with Kids
From Sydney to Perisher it takes about five and a half hours, depending on traffic and your exact start/end location.
For our trip, we split up the way there with an overnight stay in Queanbeyan. (Canberra is another excellent midway point.) I recommend leaving Sydney as early as possible. We left at 3pm before opening weekend and got stuck in a lot of traffic leaving Sydney and we didn’t arrive in Queanbeyan until 9pm, though it should only have been a three and a half hour drive.
On the way back, we drove the full journey in a day, departing the Snowy Mountains at 9am, and stopping for lunch (at the famous Trappers Bakery) and a play in Goulburn. Next time, I would consider doing this on the way there too, as it’s nicer driving in the daytime and saves the cost of an additional night’s accommodation.
Recommended overnight hotels in Canberra/Queanbeyan:
Located right beside Canberra Airport, Vibe is a convenient and comfortable stopover when driving from Sydney to Perisher. Modern family rooms and apartments, and an on-site restaurant make it easy to arrive late, enjoy a good night’s sleep and get back on the road early. Breakfast is included, but parking is an additional fee. I stayed here on a previous trip to Canberra, and it’s really great for families.
A great value option in Queanbeyan, Golden Age Motor Inn is particularly well suited to families thanks to its spacious rooms, family suites sleeping up to five or more guests, free parking and easy self-check-in. The motel is just off the highway, making it an ideal overnight stop. We stayed here, and the kids loved the bunk beds. We had breakfast in Queanbeyan town centre before hitting the road.
Recently renovated and set in the quiet suburb of Watson, Canberra Park Motel is a comfortable and affordable stopover. Family rooms, free parking, in-room microwaves and fridges, and a peaceful parkland setting make it easy to travel with young children. Its location just off the highway allows families to break up the journey without the hassle of city traffic, while nearby cafés, shops and fast-food options are convenient for an easy dinner and breakfast before heading to the snow.
Recommended family-friendly stops/playgrounds en route:
- Berrima Market Place Park
- Riverside Park – Inclusive Playground, Goulburn
- Goulburn Adventure Playground
- Fedra Olive Grove
- Boundless Playground, Canberra
- Ninja Parc Fyshwick (Good for rainy days)
- Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre and Cafe, Cooma
Read about visiting Canberra with toddlers here
Skitube vs Driving
Once you arrive in Jindabyne, and depending on where you stay, you have two routes to get to Perisher. You can drive the full way to the resort, or you can drive to the Skitube terminal and take the train.
The Skitube
The Skitube is an alpine railway that runs from the Bullocks Flat Terminal (on the Alpine Way between Jindabyne and Thredbo) up to Perisher Valley Resort. Most Perisher hotels offer a free pickup service from the SkiTube terminal to the hotel.
Travel Time: 10 minutes to Perisher Valley, and an extra seven minutes to Blue Cow.
Pros: Removes the stress of driving in icy conditions, bypasses the need to hire or fit snow chains, and includes your Kosciuszko National Park entry fee in the ticket price. You can also leave your car in the free, patrolled overnight carparks and don’t have to worry about paying for overnight parking in Perisher.
Cons: It can be more expensive for groups and families. A return ticket costs around $55-65 as an add-on to a lift pass per adult and $30-35 for children. Under-fives are free.
Driving to Perisher
Driving requires navigating Kosciuszko Road from Jindabyne up to Perisher Valley Resort.
Travel Time: Roughly 25 to 30 minutes from Jindabyne, depending on weather and traffic.
Pros: It can be cheaper overall for groups if you’re visiting for the day only, but if you’re staying overnight then you will need to factor in overnight parking at Perisher which can be expensive. You have the flexibility to leave when you want and can keep all your gear conveniently stored in your boot. Perisher does not charge for day parking.
Cons: You must pay the Kosciuszko National Park daily vehicle entry fee (currently $29 per vehicle day during the winter season). By law, all 2WD vehicles must carry snow chains in winter, and driving in blizzard conditions can be dangerous if you are not experienced. Snow chains cost from $50 for a three-day hire. Overnight parking in Perisher can be expensive and limited.
We took the Skitube, and for us it was a fun addition to the trip. The kids were excited, and I was happy not to be worrying about snow chains.
Tips for Surviving the Car Journey with Toddlers
As a parent, I try my best to avoid screens and TV. The one time I break this is when travelling on long flights and car journeys. For a six-hour journey, I highly recommend a tablet and some pre-downloaded shows for toddlers. (My four-year-old currently loves David Attenborough documentaries, Steve Irwin Crocodile Hunter, Bluey and Octonauts). We also absolutely love our Yoto mini players, and they come on every journey with us. Then I always bring a colouring book and pencils, plenty of snacks and a few toys.
Make sure you factor in toilet and movement stops into your journey and expect some nap disruption. My daughter will nap on any car journey over 30 minutes, regardless of the time of day.
Where to Stay in the Snowy Mountains
You have two options when skiing in Perisher: either stay on the mountain at Perisher Valley/Smiggin Holes, or stay in Jindabyne/Crackenback and take the ski tube/drive up each day.
The Best Areas for Families
Perisher Valley
Perisher Valley is the heart of the resort and the best option if you want to maximise your time on the snow. Staying here means you can walk to the lifts, return to your room for naps or lunch, and avoid driving. There are restaurants in most of the hotels for the evening and a supermarket at the Skitube station. We stayed in Perisher, and it really was handy to be able to pop back to the room when the kids were tired or to grab a change of clothes.
Recommended Perisher Accommodation for Families:
Perisher Valley Hotel
One of the most popular family hotels in the resort, Perisher Valley Hotel enjoys a fantastic ski-in, ski-out location right in the heart of Perisher Valley. We stayed here, and honestly, I don’t think you can find a more convenient spot on the mountain. The hotel offers family rooms, along with twin/king rooms and an expansive buffet breakfast is included. In peak season, the excellent Snow Gums restaurant opens for dinner in the evenings. We loved having breakfast overlooking the slopes; it added to the excitement of the day.
There is a storage room for your boots and skis, making the toddler ski experience as smooth as possible. The hotel also has a Sauna and spa room overlooking the mountain, which can be booked out in 30-minute slots. We ended up using it as a family, which wasn’t exactly relaxing but was a lot of fun. But if you can tag team, I would definitely book it for some alone time.
Family rooms sleep four people and have a king/twin bed and bunk beds.
The Man From Snowy River Hotel
Located just behind the Skitube, The Man From Snowy River Hotel is a gorgeous, cosy accommodation with a popular bar. It isn’t ski-in, ski-out, but it’s still a short walk to the slopes. During peak season, there is a kids club from 5-9pm, which includes a supervised dinner for ages two to ten years old.
The hotel also has a fantastic spa, with extensive treatments, a hair and nail salon, and a recovery suite featuring an ice bath, infrared sauna, Vichy shower, as well as an AI Zero Gravity overlooking the mountain. I managed to sneak away from the family for a few hours of relaxation, and it was the perfect remedy for my achy legs.
Family rooms sleep five people and have a king/twin bed, a single and bunk beds.
Eiger Chalet
Family-owned Eiger Chalet offers a charming European atmosphere and a prime location just 100m from the Quad Express chairlift and five minutes’ walk to the Perisher Centre and Skitube.
The chalet’s White Spider Bar is a popular spot for après ski, with live music and dancing and plenty of Glühwein, and the adjoining restaurant offers a fine dining à la carte menu, featuring mountain classics like cheese fondue and apple strudel.
Amenities include a cinema and games room, spa and sauna, mini gym and a heated boot room, and rates include breakfast or breakfast and a two-course dinner.
Family rooms sleep five people and have a king/twin bed and a queen bunk bed.
Smiggin Holes
Smiggin Holes is a quieter section of the resort and is well-suited to beginners and young families, with gentle blue and green runs that connect to Perisher Village. Smiggin Holes may not be the best choice if you’re visiting early or late in the season, as it’s lower than Perisher and doesn’t have as many snow canons. This means you may need to take the bus to Perisher to access the slopes (though it only takes five minutes).
Recommended Smiggin Holes Accommodation for Families:
Smiggins Hotel
Smiggins Hotel is ski-in, ski-out (conditions permitting), offering serviced hotel rooms and spacious, self-catered apartments. We had an evening at the hotel for the Peak Music Festival, and we really loved the atmosphere of this accommodation. It’s very family-friendly, with a free evening kids club from 6-9pm that includes supervised dinner, allowing parents to have a bit of alone time. There is also daycare from 8:30am – 3:30pm for children up to six years old for an additional fee.
During the day, there is ski–up Burger Bar on the front deck, a cafe and a lunch bistro, and in the evening, the dining room serves à la carte, while the bistro offers cook your own steaks, salads and more in an informal setting. If I were visiting in peak season, I would definitely consider staying here.
Family suites sleep six people and have a queen bed, three singles, and a rollaway bed. One-bedroom apartments sleep five, with a queen bed and three single beds.
Pipers Lodge
Pipers Lodge is one of the best-value stays on the mountain, located just across the car park from the lifts and ski school meeting area. The lodge offers family rooms, a cosy guests’ lounge with an open fire, and stays include breakfast or breakfast and dinner cooked by the hosts, Matt and Katrina. Guests also have access to some of the family facilities and kids’ club at the nearby Smiggins Hotel.
Family rooms sleep five people and have a queen bed, two singles and a sofa bed.
Jindabyne and Crackenback
Many families choose to stay off the mountain in either Jindabyne or nearby Crackenback. Accommodation is cheaper, there are more restaurants and supermarkets, and you’ll have more space. The downside is you’ll need to factor in the daily drive or SkiTube journey, and if you have a toddler who still naps, it’s a little trickier. During our trip, we stayed both in the resort and in Crackenback, and both were lovely.
Recommended Jindabyne and Crackenback Accommodation for Families:
The Station, Jindabyne
If you’re looking for value, The Station is one of the best options in the region. Located just outside Jindabyne, it offers a range of motel rooms and apartments, along with an on-site bar and restaurant and plenty of open space for children to run around. Accommodation prices are generally far lower than on the mountain, making it an excellent choice for budget-conscious families.
Motel rooms sleep five people and have a queen bed and three singles. One-bedroom apartments sleep four, with a double bed, a sofa bed and a single bed.
Nowhere Lodge, Crackenback
For something special, Nowhere Lodge in Crackenback offers a beautiful retreat with plenty of space for families and groups to spread out. Located at the top of a hill, the views of the surrounding countryside are incredible. The lodge has five bedrooms, a huge kitchen, two living rooms and a sauna, not to mention trails and bushland to explore. We had a lovely stay here, and the kids made the most of the space, taking over one of the living rooms and creating endless cubby houses with all the cushions. For smaller groups, there is also a cottage on the property, sleeping eight people in three bedrooms.
So, Where Should Families Stay?
If budget allows and skiing is your top priority, staying on the mountain at Perisher Valley or Smiggin Holes is hard to beat. But if you’re looking for a wider Snowy Mountains experience, want to keep costs down, or want more space, then Jindabyne or Crackenback are excellent alternatives.
Or you could do both like us!
Read our five-day Snowy Mountains itinerary
What to Pack for a Family Ski Holiday
Skiing is one of those holidays that you rarely pack light for. Staying warm is a priority, and nothing can end a day of skiing quicker than a cold toddler. The good news is that it’s easy to rent almost all of the equipment and most of the clothing needed from the resort.
The Best Ski Rental Shops
There are rental shops in Jindabyne, which can be cheaper than the rental shop in Perisher Valley Ski Resort, but if you’re travelling with kids (and even if you’re not), I really recommend using the resort rental shop. It is so much more convenient and means you can swap out boots during the day if you find they are uncomfortable (my husband had to do this), or you can swap from skiing to boarding if you fancy giving that a go. It also means you don’t have to carry all your ski gear up and down the mountain on the SkiTube or in the car. You can prebook your rental gear before you go.
If you are staying out of the resort, or in a hotel that isn’t directly on the slopes, there are ski lockers in Perisher where you can store your gear. I really recommend this with kids, as it’s not the easiest carrying your skis and poles, your kids’ skis and also potentially a child while walking in snow and in ski boots!
We rented skis, boots, helmets, jackets and salopettes from the resort. So, that helped reduce our luggage and meant we didn’t have to fork out on expensive snow gear before the trip.
I’ve included a handy ski packing checklist below:
- Ski jackets (can be rented)
- Ski pants (can be rented)
- Gloves (for evenings/around the resort)
- Ski Mittens
- Snow boots/walking boots/sturdy trainers
- Thermals
- Neck warmer/snood
- Beanies/bobble hats
- Goggles
- Sunglasses
- Helmets (can be rented)
- Hand warmers
- Lip balm and sunscreen
- Clothes for evening/non skiing time
- Swimmers (Some hotels have spas/pools)
- Snacks
How to Dress Toddlers for the Snow
Layering is the best way to keep warm, so for toddlers (and adults), it’s recommended to have at least three layers, including:
- Base layers (vests and thermal tops/leggings)
- Mid layers (sweatshirts, jumpers, loose t-shirts)
- Waterproof outer layers (Ski jacket and salopettes)
How to Keep Little Kids Warm:
- Look for merino wool for base layers and socks
- Make sure you have proper waterproof ski gloves
- Keep hand/feet warmers in your bag for when they get cold
Ski School and Snow Play for Young Kids
What age can kids start skiing?
Children can start skiing from as young as two years old. However, if you wish to enrol them in ski school at Perisher, they must be three. My daughter was two (almost three) during our trip, and we booked a private lesson for the family so she could learn with her brother. My son picked it up much more easily, and I do think four is the perfect age to learn skiing.
Ski School and Lessons at Perisher
Perisher offers multi-day group programmes for kids, as well as full-day and half-day lessons. For skiing, kids must be age three and above, and for snowboarding, they must be seven and older. Prebooking is recommended.
Tobogganing and Snow Play
Perisher has a dedicated tobogganing and snow play area in the village centre. Some hotels offer free toboggan rental to guests, otherwise you will need to buy/rent them from Jindabyne. We borrowed toboggans from Perisher Valley Hotel, and the kids had a great time. Tobogganing can be dangerous, so I recommend making the kids wear their ski helmets while they do it. My kids loved exploring the rocks and snowy trees in the toboggan area, too.
Perisher Childcare
Outside of ski school and hotel kids clubs, there is no official childcare in Perisher Valley; however, a few companies offer babysitting, including Kozzi Kids and Billy Button Babysitting.
Managing Expectations
I’m glad we did a private lesson, as my daughter didn’t really want to stay with the instructor and wanted my husband and me to help her. My son did really well, but I think having 1:1 tuition really helped. Once they are older, I will definitely enrol them in ski school, but I think you need to keep an open mind when taking young children on the slopes and expect that they will tire easily, may not want to participate and will need lots of breaks.
Food and Eating in Perisher
Where to Eat with Young Kids
Perisher has a good selection of restaurants, cafes and bars. In the Perisher Centre, you’ll find lots of kid-friendly options for lunch, and many of the hotels have restaurants that are open to the general public. For dinner, the Perisher Centre is closed, but Aldo’s in the SkiTube station is open until 7:30pm, and you can find dinner at most of the hotels.
My recommendations are:
- Brunelli’s Cafe (for hot chocolate and coffee)
- Perisher Mid Station (for hot chocolate)
- JAX Bar
- Yama Noodle Bar
- Kebabz
- Aldo’s Cafe & Pizzeria
- White Spider Restaurant
- Snow Gums Restaurant
- The Man From Snowy River Pub
- Smiggins Hotel Bistro
If you’re staying in a self-catering chalet like Smiggins Hotel or The Stables, it’s a good idea to stock up on food and snacks in Jindabyne, where there is a Woolworths. Otherwise, there is a small grocery store in the SkiTube terminal. This is also handy if you want to take a packed lunch onto the mountain.
The Biggest Challenges of Skiing with Toddlers
Getting Everyone Dressed
I’d say this was the biggest challenge of our ski trip with toddlers. My kids are beach babies, used to wearing minimal clothes, so they weren’t exactly keen when I tried to put them in multiple layers of clothing. My daughter did not want to wear the gloves, but then complained that her hands were cold. There is no reasoning with a two-year-old!
Once dressed, we also found that they were enjoying playing in the new environment of the hotel room, making dens and hiding in the wardrobes, so it was difficult to actually get them to leave the room!
Meltdowns and Tiredness
Once on the slopes, my son loved the experience and was happy to ski all day. My daughter was pretty much done after an hour or two. We had a few tantrums, mostly involving gloves and also at one point she decided she only wanted to wear one ski boot. But it was so many new experiences for her to take in at once, I was expecting a couple of meltdowns. We had some cuddles, went and got a hot chocolate and then tried again in the afternoon.
Toileting
Both my kids are toilet-trained, and we made a point of making everyone sit on the toilet before we left our room. Once you’re on the slopes, it’s a real pain having to head back for a toilet break with all the gear and clothes. So I highly recommend doing this.
Naps
My daughter often naps at midday, and we had planned to head back to our room at Perisher Valley Hotel for her to sleep. In the end, we were all having a nice time, and she didn’t want to nap, so we planned for an earlier bedtime instead. If you do have a napping toddler, staying close to the slopes is definitely recommended.
Skiing in shifts
We planned to ski in shifts, so that one parent would ski with the kids on the magic carpet, while the other would get a chance to ski solo. This works well, though in the end, my son picked it up so quickly that one parent skied with him and the other stayed with my daughter.
Carrying Gear
For a toddler, navigating the clothes and ski boots is more than enough of a challenge, so we weren’t expecting them to carry their own skis too. This meant we had to carry their gear, and at times, my daughter also redysed to walk, so that meant carrying two pairs of skis, poles and a toddler, while walking in ski boots. Not the easiest of tasks! I was very happy we were staying so close to the slopes for this reason.
How Much Does a Family Ski Holiday Cost?
It really depends on several factors, including when you go, where you stay and how you get there. To keep costs down, I recommend looking out for package deals that include lift passes and lessons.
When budgeting, you will need to factor in the following:
- Travel to Perisher
- Accommodation in Perisher
- SkiTube or Kosciuszko National Park entry fee
- Food/meals
- Ski/boot/helmet hire
- Jacket/pants hire
- Lift passes
Is a Ski Holiday with Toddlers Worth It?
Absolutely, we had the best time in Perisher, and I can’t wait to go back. I didn’t ski a great deal, but I also didn’t expect to, and the joy I got from watching my children learn and seeing my son fall in love with skiing really made the trip.
Final tips for first-time snow families:
- Keep an open mind and flexible schedule
- Expect some tantrums and meltdowns
- Bring lots of snacks
- Pack plenty of warm clothes
- A multiday ski pass is valid from 3pm the day before you allocated start day, meaning if you arrive in the afternoon, you can have a go at the magic carpet, or try a few runs before your first full day of skiing.
- Enjoy the total experience, my kids loved staying in the hotel room, or seeing kangaroos in the wild from the car, just as much as they loved the skiing.
