I travel to Italy often, and I’m frequently asked whether Italy is baby and toddler friendly. The answer is yes! Italy is a fantastic country to travel with children. Babies and kids are welcomed almost everywhere, the people are friendly and in Italian culture, children are very much involved in all aspects of life. You can expect to see kids out late at night at a restaurant with their families, at cultural attractions and more.
For a relaxing trip, (if there is such a thing when travelling with kids!), preparation is the key. Knowing what to pack, the type of accommodation to book and what you can expect to find on arrival can make the difference when travelling to Italy with toddlers or a baby.
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Italy Family Itinerary
I recommend keeping your itinerary as relaxed and slow-paced as possible. It can be tempting to try and tick off multiple destinations, but from experience, travelling in Italy is much more enjoyable when moving slowly. Especially when holidaying with children.
Once you’ve factored in naps, setting up monitors/cots etc at each accommodation and all the rest of the admin that comes with travelling with a baby, you want to allow plenty of time to actually see the place you’re visiting.
Recommended Italy itineraries here
Family friendly Accommodation in Italy
On the first trip we took to Italy with my son, we went to Milan to visit some friends. We booked into a small hotel as we were travelling for a while and wanted to keep things cheap. It was fine; clean, in a good location etc. But at 7pm when we put my son to bed we realised our error. We were now stuck sitting in the dark, in silence, while our toddler slept! Enrico went and got a takeaway pizza and we sat in the bathroom and ate it! Not our finest travel experience. From then on we always book either a hotel that has an adjoining living space, or we book a holiday rental from VRBO or similar. That way, when the kids are asleep, we can still enjoy our evening! We also push bedtime back a little later in Italy so we can eat out together – but more on that later.
Hotels in Italy
When booking a hotel in Italy, make sure you mention that you are travelling with a toddler and/or baby, as legally the accommodation needs to know because of occupancy rules. Additionally, there are some hotels (though it is not too common) that don’t accept kids. If in doubt, email them in advance.
Holiday Rentals in Italy
I think a holiday rental or villa is the easiest way to travel with young kids. I love having access to a kitchen to prepare food or cook a few meals at home, particularly breakfast. Plus having a microwave is useful for sterilising bottles or utensils. It’s also great to be able to wash clothes, meaning you can pack less for the trip. Baby clothes rarely stay clean after a meal of spaghetti!
Where possible, book accommodation in the centre of the town or city, so that you can pop back to your hotel room or apartment during the day to get changed, stock up on nappies or take a nap.
Lots of hotels and rentals offer baby cots and high chairs which saves you from carrying one around. It is worth asking for a photo of them though as often they can be old and not quite up to current safety standards. Unless I am moving around a lot or staying in city centres where access with a car is difficult, then I like to take my own travel cot, which is very lightweight.
During our last trip, our daughter was only 9 weeks old when we left Australia and she spent most of our 3 month trip sleeping in an excellent travel bassinet – it even fit inside my suitcase!
Getting Around Italy with a Baby and a Toddler
In general, it’s worthwhile hiring a car to travel around Italy. The exception is if you’re only staying in one city, or travelling to places like Venice, Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast which have limited parking and a car isn’t needed.
Car Seats in Italy
By law, children up to 1.5m in height must travel in a car seat in the EU and usually, the easiest option is to rent one from the same place you are hiring a car. You can bring your own car seat, but note that American and Australian car seats are not legal in Europe.
The other option is to use a baby rental equipment service – more on this later.
The only exception to this is when travelling by taxi. You are allowed to hold a baby on your lap or wear them in a baby carrier. It’s not the safest option and I would avoid doing it, but it is an option if needed.
Public Transport with Babies in Italy
It’s relatively easy to travel on public transport with toddlers and babies, but they aren’t always pram friendly. You may also find that some train stations don’t have lifts, so you have to climb up and down stairs with your pram.
Children travel for free on trains and buses and you don’t need to book a seat. Once on the train, unless it’s quiet you will need to fold up your stroller and put it in the designated luggage area or the overhead storage.
Using a Pram/Stroller in Italy
Having a pram in Italy is handy for naps on the go or for carrying around all the stuff that babies need. However, Italy has a lot of cobbled streets, stairs and narrow doorways which aren’t especially stroller-friendly.
Leave your big pram at home and bring a sturdy travel pram with good wheels or a small pram that folds easily. This way you can tackle the uneven roads, but you’ll still be able to carry it up and down stairs when needed. Also, make sure it has a decent recline for naps.
If you’re baby isn’t a good pram napper, then I suggest getting some practice in pre-trip. As you can see much more of a place if your baby doesn’t need to go home to sleep.
If you don’t want to bring a stroller, then there are baby rental services that offer pram hire, along with other items like car seats, cots and high chairs.
- Babonbo – Like AirBnB for baby items
- MammaMamma – A rental service covering some major cities (including Florence and Venice)
- MamaRent – Baby equipment rental service in Venice
- BimboMilano – Baby equipment rental service in Milan
- PartiBimboParty – Baby equipment rental service in Turin
I used Babonbo on my last trip to Bologna. I was flying in alone with the baby and I didn’t want to have to push both a pram and a big suitcase from the airport onto the train and through the city. So I travelled without one with the baby in the carrier and hired a stroller when I arrived. It was excellent – the owner delivered the pram to my accommodation and picked it up at the end of the trip.
Suggested prams for Italy:
- Redsbaby Skip2
- gb Qbit All City stroller
- gb Pockit+ All-Terrain
- BabyJogger City Mini
- BabyJogger City Tour 2 Double (wheels are small but it’s manageable)
- Mountain Buggy Nano (similar to the above) or the new Urban version with bigger wheels
- Mountain Buggy Swift
- Babyzen Yoyo
I have used a Redsbaby Skip2, BabyJogger City Tour 2 Double and gb Qbit All City stroller in Italy and had no issues.
It’s fine to get around with a stroller in most Italian cities and they are welcome in many tourist attractions.
(Some of the) pram friendly attractions in Italy:
- The Colosseum in Rome
- The Vatican in Rome
- The Pantheon in Rome
- Uffizi Gallery in Florence (though a carrier is recommended)
- Doge’s Palace in Venice
- Pompeii (with big wheels)
In Venice, either take a very lightweight pram or don’t take one at all. You will need to carry it up and down multiple stairs to get across bridges. On my first trip to Venice with my son we took the Redsbaby and it wasn’t too much of an issue getting it around and it was handy for naps. However, on my most recent trip with my daughter, I only took the baby carrier. She was still young enough to sleep in the carrier and it was much easier to get around without it. Either is fine as long as you know what to expect.
If you have a wild toddler like mine, make sure they hold your hand near the canals as they can easily fall/jump in the water in Venice.
Food and Restaurants in Italy with Babies and Toddlers
Italian Baby Food
You’ll find a wide selection of jarred baby puree in Italian supermarkets. They have less of the pouches that you find in the UK/Australia and they tend to be one or two flavours/foods only. E.g. chicken puree and potato puree rather mixed. Don’t be surprised to find horse meat puree and prosciutto puree too!
Restaurants
With the exception of some high-end eateries, restaurants are generally family-friendly in Italy. However, they won’t always have highchairs and very rarely do they have changing facilities. Kids menus aren’t that common and in general, kids will order from the main menu or share a dish. It’s often possible to order a half portion (mezza porzione).
Dinner can sometimes be challenging as most restaurants don’t open until 7pm or later. Though we have always been able to find somewhere open earlier, or worst case, found a bar for an aperitivo that also serves snacky food like cheese, bread, cured meats or arancini.
Because of this, it can be useful to try and shift your baby’s routine a little later for the trip – getting up later and going to bed later or aiming for a longer nap during the day. If you can get the babies to sleep in the pram while you have dinner, then even better! Another good reason for this is that cafes generally open later in Italy than in Australia/UK, outside of the big cities. So if you have an early riser (like mine) you might struggle to find a 6am coffee.
It’s worth making a reservation for restaurants, even if you’re travelling to smaller destinations and not in peak season. Mention that you have a baby/toddler when booking and check if they have space for a pram. (Often they won’t).
Some restaurants have high chairs, and we generally make do if not, but it can be handy to pack a travel high chair which sits on top of a regular seat or attaches to the table.
Toddler/Baby friendly dishes include:
- Polenta
- Risotto (I usually smush it more for the baby)
- Pasta in bianco – plain pasta with oil or butter
- Pasta al pomodoro – pasta with a simple tomato sauce
- Pasta al pesto – pasta with pesto
- Tagliatelle al ragù – essentially spaghetti bolognese
- Verdure lesse – boiled vegetables
- Gnocchi (I squish these with a fork for the baby)
- Patatine – chips
- Pizza crust
- Gelato – ice cream
We generally eat breakfast at the accommodation, which is where a holiday rental is also great as you can buy food at the supermarket to keep in the fridge and prepare before heading out for the day. In hotels, it’s usually a continental breakfast which consists of pastries, cheese, salami and yoghurt.
Nappies and Baby Changing in Italy
It’s not common to find baby-changing facilities in Italy. We tend to do what we call a ‘flying change’ where one of us holds the baby and the other changes her (not ideal for poos!) or we use the pram as a changing table or a bench. For this reason, pack a padded nappy change mat. The toddler we usually do it while he stands. You can buy nappies at supermarkets and pharmacies.
Formula
Formula is also sold at supermarkets and pharmacies. If your baby is used to a specific brand then it’s a good idea to bring that with you, but otherwise HIPP Organic is a good baby formula. You can also buy pre-made formula in plastic bottles which isn’t very environmentally friendly but handy for travelling.
What to Pack for a Trip to Italy with a Toddler and Baby
- A Baby carrier – I love the Ergobaby Omnibreeze 360
- A non-WiFi baby monitor – so you can use it even if the accommodation doesn’t have WiFi.
- Monitor mounts – These are so handy for attaching the monitor to door handles or curtain rails.
- A padded baby change mat.
- Bottles and formula if you use them (though this can also be bought in Italy).
- If hiking, then take a baby backpack like the Osprey Poco Lite.
- If travelling in summer, a portable fan that attaches to the pram is a great way to keep the baby cool.
- If you have space, a small mat for playing in hotels etc. Italian floors are usually very hard!
When is the best time to travel to Italy with a baby or toddler?
Avoid the hottest months of July and August (except for in the Dolomites) and travel in the shoulder season, May-June and September-October. You’ll still get nice weather but it won’t be too hot or as crowded. The Dolomites are also incredible in winter, especially if you want to ski. Lots of hotels have kids’ clubs, ski schools and babysitting services during the ski season.
Activities for Babies and Toddlers in Italy
Unless you’re in a family-style resort, there aren’t many child-focused activities in Italy. However, there are many beautiful places to go and things to do that kids will love, like beaches and lakes, mountains, farms and country shows and sagras (festivals unique to each village or town). Most cities and towns have a playground or two and my toddler loves the experience of wandering a city and enjoying a meal in a piazza.
Other things to consider when travelling in Italy with a Baby or Toddler
Italians in general are very warm and friendly, they also love babies. So don’t be surprised if people come and talk to you and touch your baby. I think this happens slightly less since COVID-19, but it does still happen. I politely ask them not to as I’m keen to avoid any more germs than they already get!
Unlike Australia, swimming pools don’t legally require a fence. So if you’re staying in a villa or hotel with a pool make sure someone has an eye on the kids at all times.
We love travelling in Italy with our little ones, but it is important to remember that it is a different experience to holidaying without kids. There are less long lunches and more playground visits but it’s an incredible experience to share with the kids. Even if they don’t remember it, we do.
The Best Places to Visit in Italy with a Toddler and Baby
It depends on what sort of holiday you are looking for and what you like to do, but there are some of my favourite destinations in Italy to travel with babies.
The Dolomites
The mountain region in the north of Italy is perfect for families. There are lots of outdoor activities, fresh air and family-friendly accommodation like Feuerstein Nature Family Resort and Hotel Garberhof. We love it! It’s also a good destination to visit in the summer as it’s not as hot as the rest of Italy.
Recommended activities:
- Hire a boat on Lago di Braies
- Take a few of the shorter hikes (a hiking baby carrier can be handy for this)
- Enjoy the excellent children’s parks in this region
- Have lunch at a Rifugio (mountain hut)
- Visit one of the small farms
Lake Garda
Another favourite location for us, Lake Garda has gentle (though cold) beaches, lovely towns and villages and mountain hikes. There are paths around almost all of the lake which is ideal for using the pram and there are lots of family-friendly holiday villages and accommodation here as well as family theme parks.
Recommended activities:
- Take the cable car up Monte Baldo
- Walk the promenade next to the lake
- Have a paddle or swim in the lake
- Play in one of the children’s parks
Tuscany
Romantic Tuscany is also a great destination for families, in fact, I spent nearly all of my childhood summers there and loved it. There are some beautiful countryside hotels, agriturismi (agricultural stays) and villas suitable for families, often with lovely pools and activities. On the coast, children can swim at the calm sandy beaches.
Recommended activities:
- Swim at the Tuscan beaches
- Stay in an agriturismo
- Explore the smaller towns and cities like Lucca and Montepulciano
- Bath in the thermal springs (for older kids)
Puglia
Puglia has some of mainland Italy’s best beaches, with golden sand and crystal clear water, making it a great destination for a beach holiday with toddlers and babies. There are lots of beautiful hilltop towns and cities that can be easily navigated with a stroller and you can stay in incredible masserias (old farmhouses), many of which are family-friendly.
Recommended activities:
- Swim at the beautiful Puglian beaches like Punta Prosciutto
- Stay in a Masseria, recommendations include Borgo Egnazia, Masseria Torre Coccaro, Masseria Borgo San Marco, Masseria Cervarolo,
- Explore the trulli of Alberobello
- Wander the hilltop towns of Ostuni and Cisternino
Sardinia
Sardinia has wide sandy beaches, lovely family resorts and hotels. There are many relaxed seaside towns and villages which are perfect for Italian holidays with toddlers and babies.
Recommended activities:
- Spend some time on the incredible Golfo di Orosei and take a boat trip to Cala Goloritze and Bue Marino Grotto.
- Visit Butterfly House near Alghero, a biosphere with more than 400 butterflies
- Take the ‘Trenino Verde’, the slow-moving green tourist train (the shorter routes are best with toddlers, like the Tempio Pausania – Luras route, inland from Olbia.
- Enjoy the beautiful beaches of Costa Smeralda and take a boat trip
- Play on the wide sandy beaches of the Costa Rei near Cagliari. Cala Sinzias is my favourite!
