I first visited the Dolomites in 2018. My Italian husband grew up just south of the region, and on our first trip to visit his family, we had a little getaway to the mountains. I was hooked. The pink peaks, aquamarine lakes and charming alpine villages all make for an incredibly scenic and fun-filled holiday, and since then, I’ve taken any opportunity I can to return.
A lot has changed since that first trip, and we now have two additional travelling companions: a one-year-old and a three-year-old. Luckily, the Dolomites are a surprisingly good destination for families, with family-friendly hikes, incredible alpine playgrounds and malghe (malga – singular). These are traditional mountain huts, often with restaurants, farm animals and activities for kids. In addition to this, the Dolomites have some of the most amazing child-friendly accommodation that I’ve ever experienced. Here is what I think is the perfect Dolomites itinerary for families.
Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. This means that if you click a link and purchase something I’ve recommended, I’ll earn a small commission. This does not affect the price you pay, but it helps me to run this site. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here.
My kids aren’t babies anymore; they are on their feet, full of energy, but still tire easily and have a limited attention span. So this itinerary features hikes that are manageable for young kids or can be done easily enough with a baby carrier, e.g. no rock climbing, and with a variety of activities each day to keep both kids and parents happy.
6-Day Dolomites Family Itinerary Overview:
- Day 1: Arrival & Explore Ortisei
- Day 2: Seceda
- Day 3: Alpe di Siusi
- Day 4: PanaRaida & Mar Dolomit
- Day 5: Lago di Braies
- Day 6: Departure
4-Day Family Itinerary Option:
- Day 1: Arrival & Explore Ortisei
- Day 2: Seceda
- Day 3: Alpe di Siusi
- Day 4: PanaRaida
Before You Go: Planning Tips for Families
The Best Time to Visit the Dolomites
When to travel to the Dolomites depends on what you plan to do when you’re here. If you want to go hiking, then May to October is the time to visit. If you want to ski, then come from December to March. Outside of these months, many restaurants and lifts are closed. June is a lovely month to visit, as you’ll likely experience the stunning wildflowers that grow all over the mountain meadows. July and August can be very busy, particularly in August when Italians are on holiday.
Getting There
Innsbruck (INN), Verona (VRN) and Venice (VCE) are the closest international airports to the Dolomites, depending on where you are staying. Of the three, Venice is the largest with the most flight options. Other options include Munich (MUC) and Milan (MXP).
Where to Base Yourself
The Dolomites are part of the regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Friuli Venezia Giulia, and are spread over the five Italian provinces of South Tyrol, Trentino, Belluno, Udine and Pordenone. Within the Dolomites are lots of sub-regions, with popular areas including Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Val d’Ega, Val di Fassa, Plan de Corones and Val di Fiemme.
It’s a big area and there is a lot to see, too much for one trip, so it’s best to choose one area to explore. This itinerary focuses on Val Gardena and the central and eastern Dolomites.
Getting Around
It’s worth hiring a car to explore the Dolomites, so I recommend hiring one from the airport when you arrive. We hired a car from Discover Cars and picked it up from Venice Airport, before driving around 3.5 hours to Ortisei. They provided car seats, and it was an easy way to start the trip.
There is public transport within and connecting the main towns and valleys. If you’re staying at a hotel or tourist accommodation in Val Gardena, most accommodations provide a free Mobil Card, offering unlimited public bus travel between Selva, Ortisei, and Santa Cristina.
You will also need to purchase tickets for the cable cars, which can be bought as single tickets, or you can buy a 3 or 6-day Gardena Pass for the whole Val Gardena region.
What to Pack
The mountains can be cold, even in summer, so it’s a good idea to pack lots of layers. Having said that, on our recent family trip to the Dolomites, it was 30 degrees during the day, so it’s worth bringing t-shirts and shorts too. A hat and sun cream are essential in the mountains where the UV is often high. Make sure everyone has hiking shoes or trainers with a good grip.
For toddlers, bring a baby carrier or hiking backpack. My recommendations are:
If you don’t have a carrier, you can rent one from Babonbo, along with other baby gear like jogging strollers and car seats. In Ortisei Sport Gardena also rent out carriers and prams too.
Language
The Dolomites have three official languages: Italian, German and Ladin (the local language). This means that towns, mountains, etc. have three different names, so it can be a little confusing when looking at maps or asking for directions. For example, the town of Ortisei (Italian) is also known as Urtijëi (Ladin) and St. Ulrich (German). For consistency, I am using the Italian names and words in this article.
Where to Stay with Kids in the Dolomites
This itinerary is based in Val Gardena, one of the key valleys and part of the Dolomiti Superski region. For families, Ortisei is the best town to stay in, due to its location between Alpe di Siusi and Seceda, with easy access to the cable cars (more on that later). It also has lots of good accommodation options and plenty of facilities.
I’ve written about what I think are the best family hotels in the Dolomites here, but for this itinerary, my recommendations for Ortisei accommodation with kids are:
Budget/Mid-range – Apartments Rainer
We spent two nights here in a 2-bedroom apartment, and it was a great accommodation for families. The kids had their own room, so we could relax in the lounge, kitchen or our bedroom once they were asleep in the evening. Having a kitchen and a washing machine is ideal when travelling with children. It was easy to prepare snacks, eat breakfast at home and wash the clothes after a day on the mountain.
Luxury – Hotel Angelo Engel
This is a beautiful hotel in the town centre, with lush gardens and an indoor/outdoor pool. While it’s not a dedicated kids’ hotel, it’s kid-friendly, and we had a great stay here with our little ones. You can choose to go half board, which I recommend with toddlers, as it means everything is on site and you don’t have to worry about eating out in the evenings (unless you want to). The food was also excellent, as was the service. This hotel doesn’t offer childcare or babysitting.
Luxury – Gardena Grödnerhof
Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel & Spa is a luxurious, family-friendly 5-star retreat. With spacious family suites and outstanding dining, including a Michelin-starred restaurant. The hotel offers a kids club from 3 to 11pm, 6 days a week, for children 3 years of age and older and has a play area, as well as a play area, a climbing wall, a children’s cinema, table tennis and tabletop football. Babysitting is also available for an additional fee.
Luxury – Cavallino Bianco
This 4-star hotel is well known for being one of the first dedicated family hotels in the Dolomites (of which there are now many with increasingly fantastic services and costs to match). Located in the town centre, a few steps from the Alpe di Siusi cable car, it offers spacious, child-friendly suites, exceptional childcare from one month old, and a 1,250m² indoor play area. The hotel’s all-inclusive dining includes gourmet meals and a dedicated kids’ restaurant, and it is regularly ranked among the world’s best family hotels.
Dolomites Itinerary with Toddlers
Day 1: Arrival & Explore Ortisei
Check into your accommodation and head out to explore the town of Ortisei. The town has a pedestrian centre with bars, restaurants, cafes and shops. There is also a little playground near the church and a much larger playground on Luis Trenker Promenade Playground, behind the Conad City supermarket. There is a map at the end of the article that shows the main playgrounds in the area.
If you’ve arrived early, then you can also take a trip up Funicolare Resciesa. It takes about eight minutes for the scenic ride from the bottom to the top, where you’ll find an alpine restaurant at 2,200m with gorgeous views. From there, you can also take a 3km return hike if you’re feeling energetic before heading back down. The funicular is included in the Gardena Pass.
Have dinner at your hotel or in the town before getting an early night for a day of hiking the next day.
Day 2: Seceda
Today, you’ll head up Seceda, one of the Dolomites’ most popular mountains. From Ortisei, it’s reached by two cable cars, the first to Furnes, in the middle of the mountain and then a larger cable car that continues to the summit. This takes around 30 minutes, plus a little walk from the town centre via an underground walkway.
Once at the top, the first stop with toddlers is the playground next to the lift entrance, featuring swings, a slide and more. The Dolomites have fantastic children’s playgrounds, and our kids had the best time visiting as many as we could.
There were also a few tiny patches of very icy snow! My kids’ first experience of it which was very exciting for them (and us).
There are quite a few different hiking options from this point, and we decided to take a 6km route that would take us downhill, and back down the mountain from another cable car below, therefore avoiding too much uphill climbing with little ones.
Before you head off, be sure to check the information board outside the lift station, which lists which malghe are open that day and any track closures.
After the playground, walk up to Seceda Ridgleline, a stunning lookout with incredible views of Oodles Peak. It’s fenced, but there is a sheer drop on one side, so keep little ones in a carrier or hold their hands for this section.
From the Ridgeline, there are a few different routes down the mountain, but they all head in the same direction.
Stop for lunch at Troier Hütte, a fantastic malga that has swings, ride-on kids’ tractors and a kids’ alpine hut, as well as alpacas. For parents, the food is excellent and the views are pretty spectacular.
This is a good opportunity to try some traditional food, and you’ll find lots of South Tyrolian classics on the menu, including dumplings, soups, stews and polenta as well as the region’s cured meat, Speck Alto Adige and local cheeses like Stevia and Tubla.
Relaxing here was a highlight of our trip, while the kids played happily and we indulged in a charcuterie board and a cold beer.
If Troier Hütte is closed, then Malga Pieralongia Alm or Baita Daniel Hütte are other excellent options for lunch.
From the malga, continue down the mountain past Iman See, a little mountain lake, to the Col Raiser cable car. From here, you can take the lift down the mountain to Plan da Tieja and take a bus or taxi back to Ortisei.
Note: It’s worth checking the bus timetable before you set off, as they aren’t always that frequent. The other option is to walk back up the hill after lunch and travel back down to Ortisei from the Seceda cable car.
What to take up Seceda:
If you have toddlers, I recommend having a carrier for each child. My one-year-old went in the carrier for the whole walk, but my son walked the majority of the time. However, when he got tired, we had a preschool carrier for him packed in the bag so he could have a rest, and he ended up napping in it. Also bring lots of water, snacks, layers and sunscreen.
Back in Ortisei, enjoy a dip in your hotel pool (if you have one) or wander the lovely pedestrian streets of the town centre before dinner.
Day 3: Alpe di Siusi
On the third day in the Dolomites, head to the opposite side of town and up to Alpe di Suisi (German: Seiser Alm, Ladin: Mont Sëuc), a plateau and the largest high-alpine meadow in Europe. It’s also accessed via the Alpe di Siusi Ropeway (Funivie Ortisei) from Ortisei, just across a pedestrian bridge from the Cavallino Bianco hotel. There are stroller-friendly hikes on the plateau, so you can bring a pram with you if you have one, or it’s also possible to hire one from some of the hotels.
Enjoy the view at the top, and then head out on a hike. I recommend a 6km loop that takes you through the meadows, past some of the malghe and then back up to the cable car station. It’s relatively flat, so not too challenging for the kids (or parents), except for a little hill at the end. There are plenty of other trails to explore if you fancy going a little further, too.
In spring, the wildflowers here are even more spectacular than on Seceda, and it feels like you’re walking through a painting or the opening scene of the Sound of Music!
Note: There are electric fences on Alpe di Siusi and they aren’t always that obvious. My son got a shock (literally) when he touched one – so it’s good to warn the children in advance.
You’ll pass Malga Contrin after about 1km, but it’s worth continuing onto Malga Sanon for lunch, which is just over halfway. This hut has the most incredible views of the Sassolungo (Langkofel) and the Sassopiatto (Plattkofel) peaks and a fantastic kids’ playground with a climbing frame, swings and a sand pit. We took the opportunity to try some Canederli (bread dumplings) here, which were delicious and very satisfying after the walk.
After lunch, continue the loop back up towards the cable car station, stopping at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige for dessert. The apple strudel is excellent here, served with the farm’s own cream. This hut also has a playground with plenty of fun play equipment for the kids, including a trampoline. It also has lots of animals, including cows, horses, goats, chickens, rabbits and a peacock.
Continue uphill to the cablecar station and ride back down the mountain to Ortisei. Enjoy an afternoon swim at your hotel or an aperitivo before dinner in the town.
Read my top tips for travelling in Italy with toddlers
Day 4: PanaRaida & Mar Dolomit
Have a more relaxing day today, and drive 15 minutes to PanaRaida, just up the mountain from S Cristina at the bottom of the chairlift Mont Sëura. PanaRaida is a 3km adventure trail featuring 10 adventure stations. It’s a really fun activity with kids and very flat, so it can be done with a pram too.
Note: Some of the trail passes through fields with cows and horses in, so just be mindful of that when walking. It’s a good idea to bring snacks and a packed lunch with you for this activity.
After the trail, drive back to Ortisei to Mar Dolomit. This is a public swimming pool, and entrance is free with the Mobil Card. There are different pools, both indoor and outdoor, including a great little toddler pool with a slide.
Alternatively, head to Adventure Park Col de Flam, near the Seceda cable car station, with zip lines and high ropes (for kids aged over 4), trampolines and an animal farm.
If you fancy something different for dinner, on certain evenings the Alpe di Siusi Ropeway reopens and you can head up to the restaurant at the top for dinner overlooking the Sassolungo peaks.
Day 5: Lago di Braies
Get up early, hop into your rental car and drive 1 hour and 30 minutes to Lago di Braies. This is a very beautiful (and very popular) lake, with striking blue water and a mountain backdrop. You can hike the 4km circuit around the lake, which takes around 2 hours, or hire boats and row into the centre, which the kids will love.
Bring a picnic lunch to eat by the lake and then drive back to Ortisei in the afternoon (hopefully while the kids nap).
Note: You can prebook parking online, as the closest car park gets very busy. During the peak season, the road to the lake is closed, so you will need to park at one of the car parks further away and take a bus in. More information can be found here.
Enjoy your final evening in Ortisei, maybe trying a Hugo Spritz if you haven’t already – the South Tyrolean version of the Italian aperitivo, made with elderflower liqueur, Prosecco and soda water.
Day 6: Departure
Check out of your accommodation and make your way to the airport for the flight home. If you have a longer trip, you can easily combine your holiday in the Dolomites with a stay at Lake Garda, a city break to Venice or an extended Italian road trip. You can find some of my suggested itineraries here.
Summary
What have I learned from hiking with toddlers in the Dolomites? Always bring snacks, alpine playgrounds are incredible and don’t forget the baby carrier! I hope this itinerary is useful and you have a great trip. The Dolomites are honestly such a great destination for families, and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back.
Other Useful Information for Family Holidays in the Dolomites
It’s worth checking the weather forecast and adjusting the days of your itinerary accordingly. PanaRaida is much lower than Seceda and Alpe di Siusi, so if it’s cloudy, head there and save the other two for sunny days. Be sure to double-check lift opening times and dates before you go.
4 comments
you did a great job with this post – so so so helpful. thank you!
Thank you 🙂
Thank you so much for the information! Planing to go there with our 1 year old baby next June, so everything that you wrote is super useful for me! What is the max high above the sea you visited? Its going to be our first time with a baby among mountians (only in september we climbed a hill in Como) but we live at a very flat area , so i’m a little bit nervous
Thank you once again for sharing your experience! People like you are inspiring me to travel with kids!
The highest elevation was Seceda at 2,500m and we didn’t really notice the change – just a little bit in the ears. So hopefully you will be ok! Have a great time, it’s such a beautiful part of the world and a lovely place to travel with young children.