Heading to Japan for the first time can feel a little overwhelming – there are so many different places to visit and lots to see in each place. If you’re travelling in Japan with a family, there is even more to consider – naps, how much luggage you will be carrying around and where you will stay with little ones. Because of this, on our first trip to Japan with babies we decided to keep things simple, choosing two destinations and exploring them well, to keep the trip as relaxed as possible. We set our sights on Tokyo and Kyoto and a 10 day family itinerary through Japan.
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10 Day Japan Family Itinerary:
- Day 1-3 Tokyo (West)
- Day 3-8 Kyoto
- Day 8-10 Tokyo (East)
We started and finished our stay in Tokyo as we had return flights from the city, however, if you can get a direct flight in or out of Osaka or don’t mind a connection, you may wish to amend this itinerary to group the Tokyo sections together and avoid taking two trains.
Day 1-3 Tokyo
Japan’s capital city is also the largest in the world, meaning there is plenty to see. For this reason, we decided to base ourselves on different sides of the city for each of our stints in Tokyo, so we could explore the areas close to our accommodation and avoid long trips on the Metro.
We spent the first few days in Shibuya and Shinjuku, which are some of the most famous wards in Tokyo. Though these areas are well known for nightlife, there are still lots of things to do with a young family.
Things to do in Tokyo (West)
- Cross the famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing
- Admire the views from Shibuya Sky (you can also see Shibuya Scramble Crossing from here). Book in advance.
- Wander through Yoyogi Park – a great place for young children to let off some steam
- Have dinner at Omoide Yokocho – laneways full of little bars and restaurants.
- Wander the famous streets of Kabukichō and spot the Godzilla head at the top of Hotel Grocery
- Enjoy dinner or have a stroll around Golden Gai (not the most family-friendly place but still worth a visit – baby-wearing is the best option for this).
It’s worth visiting at least one sky tower during your stay, to admire the huge expanse of Tokyo from above. We visited Shibuya Sky, but there are quite a few options including the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building which is free and Tokyo Skytree (in the east of the city).
Children’s Parks in Shinjuku
There are quite a few children’s parks in Shinjuku – handy for a quick play pre and post-sightseeing. I have included these (in blue) on the map above.
Where to Eat in Tokyo with Babies and Toddlers
We managed to eat at an outdoor Izakaya restaurant in Omoide Yokocho and squeezed our double pram in behind the chairs. It was great – the staff were friendly and our toddler loved the meat skewers. We also had delicious sushi at Matsue in Shibuya Scramble Square and they provided our toddler with some baby sushi (essentially mini sushi slightly sweetened).
Where to Stay in Tokyo (Shinjuku Ward)
Tokyo accommodation and accommodation in Japan in general is more expensive than many other countries in Asia and the rooms are often small – so it’s important to book carefully when travelling with a family. Many Japanese hotel rooms would not have the space to fit an additional bed or cot for a baby.
Budget – 3 star Daiwa Roynet Hotel Nishi-Shinjuku PREMIER has family rooms that can accommodate two adults and two children. It’s a 15 minute walk from Omoide Yokocho and 18 minutes from Shinjuku Station.
Mid-Range – MIMARU Tokyo Shinjuku West has fantastic apartments which work well for families. We stayed in a Superior One-Bedroom Apartment, which had a living room, kitchen and separate bedroom. They provide free cots and high chairs along with lots of other amenities.
Luxury – Park Hyatt Tokyo is probably the most famous hotel in Tokyo. It was featured in the movie Lost in Translation and has gorgeous rooms with views of Mount Fuji or Shinjuku. As well as an indoor pool and 52nd-floor New York Grill restaurant.
It’s easy to get to Shinjuku from Haneda airport via the Airport Limousine – a bus service.
Day 3 Tokyo to Kyoto
The best way to travel between Tokyo and Kyoto is on the Shinkansen bullet train. There is a direct train (Chūō Line) from Shinjuku to Tokyo Station, where the train departs. This makes it fairly easy with luggage, though there is also the luggage port service, where your luggage is delivered straight to your next hotel for a fee. We decided not to do this as we were travelling light (one suitcase for the four of us) and we didn’t want to wait for our stuff to arrive in Kyoto.
Read here about how we packed for and travelled Japan with two babies.
We had been warned that the Shinkansen trains are extremely punctual and there isn’t much time to get on and off, which turned out to be true – so make sure you get to the platform early and are prepared to get on when it arrives. I had the baby in the carrier and the toddler holding my hand and got them onto the train, while my husband dealt with the (folded up) travel pram and the suitcase.
It’s a 2 hour train on the fastest of the Shinkansen – Nozomi. We travelled over lunchtime, so we made sure we pre-bought food for the journey. Tokyo Station is full of great food vendors, many with takeaway containers which is quite unusual for Japan. Other good options are 7-Eleven, Lawson or Fresco for pre-packaged sushi.
Train tip – Seat E in each carriage has the best views of Mount Fuji. If you’ve been allocated a different seat then it is possible to make one reservation/seat change for free at train stations until the day before you travel (providing there is availability). Read more about booking and travelling on the Shinkansen here.
Day 3-8 Kyoto
I loved Kyoto. Tokyo is an incredible city, but I enjoyed our time in Kyoto the most during our family holiday in Japan. It’s a little less hectic, more green and full of stunning temples and lovely outdoor spaces to explore.
While planning for the trip I felt a little overwhelmed with choosing between all the things to do in Kyoto. So we decided to book a tour for the day we arrived to get our bearings and understand what to do for the rest of our time in the city. We booked through Viator and our guide Kay, was fantastic. She took us around Gion, Kyoto’s famous geisha district, explaining the role of the Geisha and visiting various temples, before leading us to Nishiki Market. She also provided us with excellent recommendations on family-friendly places to eat in Kyoto and the best temples to visit with babies and toddlers.
It’s worth noting that tourists have now been banned from entering certain streets in Gion. So taking a tour is another way to ensure you aren’t venturing somewhere you shouldn’t be and causing any distress to the local residents.
Things to Do in Kyoto
- Take a guided walking tour
- Take a day trip to Nara to see the many deer that reside there, along with Tōdai-ji temple and the huge golden Buddha
- Explore some of the many temples – we loved Nanzen-ji Temple and Eikan-dō Temple
- Walk the Philosophers Path, a tree-lined, riverside pedestrian walkway that connects some of the city’s temples, along with shops and restaurants.
- Eat everything
- Visit the famous red gates of Fushimi Inari Shrine (leave the pram at your hotel for this one and arrive early or late in the day to avoid crowds)
- Try and spot a Geisha in Gion
- Eat your way around Nishiki Market
Where to Eat in Kyoto with Babies and Toddlers
We had such a great meal at Yakiniku Marutomi. At Yakiniku restaurants you order the cuts and types of meats you want and they are brought to your table raw for you to cook yourself on your own mini table BBQ. This might not sound the most child-friendly, but it was actually great. They provided a high chair at the end of the table and away from the hot plate and our toddler loved the experience of seeing the meat cooked before he ate it.
Most of the other evenings we got a takeaway or delivery to our apartment, including sushi from Fresco, okonomiyaki from Donguri and ramen from Men-ya Inoichi.
Children’s Parks in Kyoto
We found a couple of small parks in Kyoto though we needed them less than in Tokyo as we spent a lot of time outdoors, walking and exploring the temples which our toddler enjoyed. Children’s parks are included on the map above in blue. Misayama Park was a favourite.
Where to Stay in Kyoto
It’s a good idea to base yourself within walking distance of Gion and Nishiki Market. There are lots of restaurants around here and you can walk to many tourist attractions.
Budget – Kamoya Ryokan is a traditional Japanese-style hotel. It has family rooms with private bathrooms and futon beds (perfect for toddlers!). It’s a 7-minute walk from Shichijo Station and a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Station and also offers bicycle rentals.
Mid-Range – We stayed at MIMARU SUITES Kyoto Sijo in a Three-Bedroom Suite. It was such a great base for our time in Kyoto. Spacious, well-equipped and in an excellent location. I really recommend it for families. They also had a 2 hour happy hour each day with Japanese craft beer and sake.
Luxury – Seikoro Ryokan is a traditional Japanese-style hotel with family rooms. It has its own onsen and massage services. The hotel restaurant serves Japanese or Western breakfast and Japanese dinner.
Day 8 Kyoto to Tokyo
Take the Shinkansen back to Tokyo for your second stint in the city, this time staying in the east.
Day 8-10 Tokyo (East)
We based ourselves in the historic Asakusa district, next to the Sumida River. This is a low rise area in comparison to Sibuya and Shinjuku and is home to Sensoji, a Buddhist temple, built in the 7th century. There is lots to see on foot here, but you can also easily take the Metro to some of the other big attractions like Tsukiji Outer Market and Ueno Park.
Things to Do in Tokyo (East)
- Visit the Tsukiji Outer Market
- Visit Sensōji Temple
- Buy souvenirs on Nakamise Shopping Street
- View the city from Tokyo Skytree
- Take a Sumida River Cruise
- Explore teamLab Borderless and teamLab Planets – two immersive digital art experiences.
- Wander through the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace
- Go to Ueno Park where you’ll find Ueno Zoological Gardens, The National Museum of Western Art, The Ueno Royal Museum, The Tokyo National Museum and The National Museum of Nature and Science
- Eat at Tokyo Ramen Street
- Spot a Sumo wrestler in Ryogoku
Where to Eat in Tokyo (East) with Babies and Toddlers
Tsukiji Outer Market has an incredible array of delicious food on offer from lobster and scallops to wasabi peas and tamagoyaki. Though it’s busy, we found it easy to navigate with our travel pram and the baby in the carrier. There are a few areas of seating, so once you’ve made your purchase you can sit down to enjoy it.
We also had a really fun meal at Kura Sushi. Their flagship restaurant is in Asakusa and our toddler loved the conveyor belt sushi, with lots of options for all of us.
Children’s parks in Tokyo (East)
Bentenyama Children’s Park was a short walk from our accommodation and was handy for a quick play before exploring. I’ve included it and a few others on the map above.
Where to Stay in Tokyo (Asakusa Ward)
Budget – OMO3 Asakusa by Hoshino Resorts has quadruple rooms which work well for families. The hotel has a shared lounge, free WiFi and a terrace and is only 600m from Asakusa Station.
Mid-Range – KOKO HOTEL Residence Asakusa Kappabashi has some great family room options with kitchenettes. It’s a ten minute walk from Sensōji Temple.
Mid-Range/Luxury – We stayed at MIMARU SUITES Tokyo Asakusa in a Two-Bedroom Suite with views overlooking the Sumida River. It’s a great family option and they provided us with a bassinet for the baby and bed rails for the toddler. On the same street is MIMARU TOKYO ASAKUSA STATION which has similar rooms for slightly less.
From Asakusa Station, it’s an easy direct Metro ride to Haneda Airport.
It was such a great trip and I am already planning a return (to include skiing this time). Have you travelled in Japan with kids? I would love to hear about your experience in the comments.